Finding the scale waterline for a new model ship can be a bit of a challenge. Here is one method that will give you a close approximation of the waterline for almost any ship of any particular size. Instead of the traditional putting the scale amount of weight in the ship and floating it in a bathtub, you will be filling the ship itself with water to its scale weight.

Gather your measurements. You need the

  • weight of the empty model ship (from your own scale)
  • scale weight of the ship (see below), and (optional) +10%, -10%, and -20% of this scale weight
  • scale width of the ship (calculated from a reference book)
  • amount of water to add to the ship (see below)

For 1:144 scale models, the scale weight of the ship is the full displacement in long tons divided by 1333 to get the weight in pounds. MWCI also has an extensive ship list with the scale weights at http://mwci.org/shiplist.shtml . For other scales, use the following calculation: scale weight = (Full displacement weight in long tons)*2240/(scale^3).

To determine the amount of water to add to the ship, subtract the weight of the empty ship from the scale weight of the ship. That is the amount of water, in pounds, you need to add to the ship. Each pound is about two cups of water (one gallon of water is 16 cups, and weighs about 8.345 pounds).

You need a completely uncut hull, as we will be filling it with water.You will also need a marker or a pencil (but not a grease pencil), and shims or a way to keep the hull level if it is not a flat-bottomed hull.

  1. Use packaging tape to tape the hull width to the scale width, so the hull does not expand when you fill it with water.
  2. Find a level slab of concrete for your hull. At the top of the hull, make sure that it is level from side to side. If it is a small ship like a cruiser that does not have a flat bottom, use shims to keep the hull upright and level.
  3. Add the correct amount of water (from your calculations above) to the hull.
  4. Mark the water level in the fore, aft, and midships of the hull.
  5. If desired, change amount of water to +10%, -10%, and -20% of scale weight and mark the water level.

These markings will be very close to the desired water line when the ship is finished, but will be slightly low because the density of the fiberglass is higher than the density of the water. On an Iowa hull, the different in that water level appears to be about the difference of one pound of water added.

Example:
An Iowa class battleship has a scale weight of 44.5 pounds and the dry, uncut hull weighs about 4.875 pounds. After taping across the sides to keep the beam width at 9 inches, add 39.625 pounds of water (4 gallons and 3 quarts). The water level will be very close to the desired water line once the ship is finished.

This method of finding the waterline will not work on ships whose keels are not level with the waterline. Some destroyers are like this and there are probably others. Most of the larger ships should be OK as their keels were built on a flat and level surface.

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Flying with LiFePO4 Batteries

December 21, 2011

in News

A number of people have started using LiFePO4 (Lithium Iron Phosphate, sometimes known as LiFe) batteries in their boats due to their great power density, their light weight, and because they are so much safer than the other lithium batteries. Unfortunately, the UN and TSA (Transportation Security Administration) have not differentiated the rules between the other types of lithium batteries and Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries. As a result, LiFePO4 batteries and cells are governed by the more restrictive rules.

Under current rules (as of December 2011), small lithium ion batteries and cells (which includes LiFePO4 cells) of up to 100 watt-hours may be carried without restriction as carry on baggage only (these are considered small batteries). Batteries and cells between 100 and 300 watt-hours can have one installed in a device and two spares, again carry on only. Cells and batteries above 300 watt-hours are forbidden. Most of our batteries fall into the small battery category, as most boats I’ve seen use the larger individual cells in the 10 to 20 amp hour range which corresponds to 33 to 66 watt hours per cell. So, you can pack as many of these for personal use as carry on so long as they are made safe to prevent shorts and damage.

Part of the problem is that the TSA agents are often unaware of the regulations concerning traveling with lithium chemistry batteries. I’ve been forced to check the batteries because the TSA agents felt that the batteries would be safer there. For that reason, I would highly recommend carrying a copy of this TSA page in your luggage right along with the batteries: http://www.tsa.gov/travelers/airtravel/assistant/batteries.shtm. The page that has the specs on what constitutes a small versus large battery is on the page http://safetravel.dot.gov/whats_new_batteries.html. This is what TSA used to make their rules, but the TSA agents only accept rules handed down directly from TSA and their website. I’ve had them flat out tell me they don’t care what the DOT rules are. It might also be a good idea to have a printed page of http://safetravel.dot.gov/larger_batt.html handy to show that the bricks we haul around are actually classified as small batteries and cells.

I hope this guide is helpful when flying with your batteries to your next model warship combat adventure.

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Flying with Paintball Tanks

December 17, 2011

It has been difficult for some time now to take paintball tanks on airplanes.  The TSA wants all paintball tanks to have their valves removed to remove any possibility of have a stored gas on board the plane, and they want to be able to visually see that the tank cannot hold air (not just [...]

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Project Updates November 2011

November 26, 2011

We just got in a new batch of speed controllers, including several new brushed and brushless models. There have also been pricing changes that I think that few people would object to. Big Gun Cannons: Please contact us if you are interested in either 2 or 3 barrel 3/16″ cannons. The first production run is [...]

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General Construction Tips

March 21, 2011

General Construction Tips (Original Article by Phil Sensibaugh, edited by Bill Pickl) Begin with the end in mind. Install the systems in the proper order. Many skippers end up installing the hardware several times because they get ahead of themselves. It’s common to complete the hull and install the drive motors, only to discover that [...]

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Installing the Prop Packing Tubes

March 20, 2011

(Original Article by Phil Sensibaugh, edited by Bill Pickl and Strike Models) Note: this is one section of a comprehensive model warship construction manual originally published on the BDE/RC website. This section is applicable to both Big Gun and Fast Gun combat. This article does not discuss how to make the packing tubes or prop [...]

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Water Channel Construction

March 19, 2011

(Original article by Phil Sensibaugh, edited by Bill Pickl and Strike Models) This material was originally published on the BDE/RC website as an instruction manual for getting started in Big Gun Model Warship Combat. This chapter is applicable to both Big Gun and Fast Gun formats. View the manual homepage. Have you ever wondered why [...]

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Strike Models End of Year Update

December 19, 2010

It has been an interesting year for me here at Strike Models. This year I’ve really found that I am a much better engineer than craftsman. So, my solution for a problem is most likely going to be an engineering solution rather than a tweaking of the parts to get it to work. A major [...]

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Scratch Building a Model Warship

November 7, 2010

Original Article by Phil Sensibaugh. Edited by Bill Pickl and Strike Models. Note: this is one section of a comprehensive model warship construction manual originally published on the BDE/RC website. This section is applicable to both Big Gun and Fast Gun combat. Strike Models Note: We advise talking to someone who has already built a [...]

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Getting Started and Choosing a Ship

November 6, 2010

(Original Article by Phil Sensibaugh, edited by Bill Pickl and Strike Models) Note: this is one section of a comprehensive model warship construction manual originally published on the BDE/RC website. This section is applicable to both Big Gun and Fast Gun combat. First things first – decide what ship you want to build. This decision [...]

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